When hundreds of parked vehicles appear out of nowhere, there’s a good chance somebody’s rooster is about to have a very bad day.
This article is part of the My Philippines Retirement Hub , a collection of observations, practical advice, and hard-earned lessons about retiring and living in the Philippines.
I’ve learned that understanding a culture and agreeing with every aspect of a culture are two different things.
One of the first clues that something unusual is happening in the Philippines is when you’re driving down a perfectly ordinary road and suddenly encounter:
- hundreds of motorcycles,
- tricycles,
- jeepneys,
- tuk-tuks,
- private cars,
- and people parked seemingly everywhere.
There’s a good chance you’ve stumbled upon a cockfight.
Or, as it’s known in the Philippines:
Sabong.
And if you’re an American expat like me, your first reaction may be:
“Wait… they’re doing WHAT to those roosters?”
Then pose the question your readers are probably thinking:
I have to admit:
This is one Philippine tradition I’ve never fully understood.
Where exactly did human beings get the idea that:
- taking two roosters,
- attaching razor-sharp blades to their legs,
- placing bets,
- and watching them fight to the death
somehow qualified as entertainment?
And perhaps equally important:
What does the ASPCA think about all this?
Then transition to culture:
Before anyone gets angry, a reality check:
Sabong isn’t some underground fringe activity.
It’s:
- centuries old,
- deeply embedded in Filipino culture,
- heavily regulated,
- enormously popular,
- and for many Filipinos, viewed no differently than horse racing, boxing, or other spectator sports.
In fact, cockfighting existed in the Philippines long before the Spanish arrived.
One of your best observations:
The atmosphere inside a sabungan resembles a cross between:
- a sporting event,
- a stock exchange,
- a casino,
- and organized chaos.
Bets are shouted.
Hands wave everywhere.
Men become instant mathematical geniuses.
And somehow everyone appears to understand exactly what’s happening except the foreigner.
Great sidebar question:
Why do airplanes have “cockpits”?
Fun fact:
The word cockpit actually predates airplanes by centuries.
Originally, a cockpit was literally:
a pit where cockfights took place.
Later, the term was adopted for:
- naval combat stations,
- command centers,
- and eventually aircraft control compartments.
So every time a pilot says:
“Welcome to the cockpit,”
they’re unknowingly referencing centuries-old rooster combat.
The question every foreigner asks:
What happens to the losing rooster?
The answer is:
They aren’t simply discarded.
Traditionally:
- the losing bird is removed,
- prepared,
- and eaten.
Many Filipinos would argue that this is no different than raising chickens for food, except the bird happened to participate in a contest first. And it comes already chopped up!
That explanation may or may not make Western animal-rights advocates feel any better.
The American contrast:
In the United States:
- cockfighting is illegal in all 50 states,
- illegal in all territories,
- aggressively prosecuted,
- and often associated with organized criminal activity.
In the Philippines:
- licensed cockfighting remains legal,
- regulated,
- taxed,
- and culturally accepted.
Same activity.
Two entirely different cultural frameworks.
These social networks influence everything from shopping habits to neighborhood life, as explored in What Filipinos Eat, Where They Shop, and Why It Matters More Than You Think and the important role played by the neighborhood Sari-Sari Store.
After living in the Philippines for years, I’ve learned that understanding a culture and agreeing with a culture aren’t necessarily the same thing.
Sabong remains one of those traditions that I understand historically and culturally…
but personally?
I’m still trying to figure it out.
There are some things about the Philippines that become easier to understand over time.
And there are some things where, after all these years, I still find myself saying:
“Really?”
Continue Exploring: Understanding Filipino Culture
-
Receipts Don’t Rule Here—Relationships Do
Why understanding relationships may be more important than understanding the rules. -
The Luxury of Less Hassle
One of the biggest reasons many retirees never move back. -
What Filipinos Eat, Where They Shop, and Why It Matters More Than You Think
How everyday habits reveal deeper truths about Filipino culture. -
The Sari-Sari Store: The Tiny Shops That Keep the Philippines Running
Why the neighborhood store is much more than a convenience store. -
Food Field Notes: Carinderia 101
How eating like a local teaches you how the Philippines really works.
📬 BUNKER NOTICE
Living in another country doesn’t mean you have to agree with every aspect of its culture.
But understanding why traditions exist—and why millions of people value them—is often the first step toward understanding the country itself.
Subscribe to The Bunker Briefing for more observations on culture, retirement, and everyday life in the Philippines